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Resources · Recovery Guides

Data recovery guides.

Practical, device-by-device advice on what to do — and what to steer clear of — the moment storage starts to fail. Drawn from over two decades of recovering drives in-house, because that first move so often decides whether your data comes back at all.

Written by our engineers
since 2002 in Newcastle
HDD, SSD, RAID & more
// the golden rule

When in doubt, power it down.

Most data is lost after the failure rather than during it — by pressing on regardless. The rules here apply to every device below.

Power off
at the first odd noise
Don't
run software on a dying drive
Never
open the drive yourself
Label
RAID / NAS disks in order
// first five minutes

Your drive has just failed. Start here.

Whatever the device, these same five moves protect your data and your odds of a full recovery. Run through them before trying anything else.

01

Stop using it

Every photo shot, file saved or program launched can overwrite data that's still recoverable. Set the device aside.

02

Power it down

If it's clicking, beeping or failing to spin, cut the power straight away. Every power cycle of a failing drive risks turning the damage permanent.

03

Don't run software

On a physically failing drive, recovery and "repair" tools keep it running and pound the weak areas — usually turning a recoverable drive into a lost cause.

04

Leave it sealed, skip the DIY

No freezer tricks, no cracking open the casing, no swapping circuit boards. These myths do real, frequently irreversible damage.

05

Get a free diagnostic

Drop it off or post it in fully insured. We tell you exactly what can be recovered, and what it costs, before any chargeable work starts.

// jump to a guide

Guides by device.

Choose the device you're facing for its warning signs, the dos and don'ts, and how recovery works for that media.

// hard-drive recovery

Hard drive recovery guide.

Spinning hard drives fail in two very different ways. Logical failures — deleted, formatted or corrupted data — leave the drive still working and are often the safest to recover. Physical failures — failed heads, a seized motor or dead electronics — mean the drive needs bench work, and the wrong first move can finish it. Working out which one you've got is half the battle.

!Warning signs
  • A clicking, beeping or grinding sound as it powers up
  • The drive won't spin up, or spins briefly then stops
  • It drops out of the BIOS, or disappears mid-use
  • Painfully slow, with long freezes when opening files
  • A SMART warning shown at boot
Do this
  • If it still reads, copy off your most important files first
  • Stop using it the instant you hear anything unusual
  • Jot down exactly what happened — dropped, power cut, or simply died
  • Keep it cool, still and unplugged until someone looks at it
Avoid this
  • Power-cycling a clicking or non-spinning drive again and again
  • Running repair or recovery software over a failing disk
  • Cracking open the casing or swapping the circuit board yourself
  • The "freezer trick", or giving the drive a knock

We recover hard drives in-house — matching donor heads and parts, imaging weak drives sector by sector, and rebuilding broken file systems.

More on hard drive recovery →
// ssd & nvme recovery

SSD & NVMe recovery guide

Solid-state drives have no moving parts, so they never click or grind — instead they tend to die suddenly and without warning. Controller lock-ups, firmware faults and "sudden death" are the usual suspects. Two things set SSDs apart from hard drives, and both matter: TRIM, which wipes deleted data for good within minutes, and the way flash slowly bleeds its charge when left unpowered.

!Warning signs
  • The drive disappears from the BIOS, often overnight
  • It shows the wrong capacity, or reads 0 bytes
  • It flips to read-only, or crawls then drops off entirely
  • It died during a firmware update, or right after one
Do this
  • Stop writing anything to the drive at once
  • After an accidental delete, shut down fast — TRIM acts within minutes
  • If you're storing an SSD long-term, power it up now and then
Avoid this
  • Carrying on with the PC after deleting something (TRIM)
  • Running "secure erase", repair or optimisation utilities
  • Assuming deleted still means recoverable on an SSD
The TRIM catch: on most SSDs, once a file is deleted the drive begins wiping those flash cells within minutes, whether you reboot or not. If you've deleted something important, shut down immediately and don't write anything new.

Our engineers read the NAND directly in technical mode, rebuild the drive's translator tables, and work at the controller level to bring data back from dead SSDs.

More on SSD & NVMe recovery →
// external drive recovery

External hard drive recovery guide

An external drive is just an ordinary hard drive or SSD in a case — so it fails in all the same ways, plus two of its own: the small USB-to-SATA bridge board that wires it up, and the hardware encryption many enclosures apply on their own. That encryption is exactly why pulling the drive out and reading it directly often gives you nothing but scrambled data.

!Warning signs
  • It shows up on no computer, cable or port
  • Windows or macOS asks you to format it
  • It clicks or stops mounting after a knock or a fall
  • The light comes on, but nothing ever mounts
Do this
  • Try another cable and port first — it rules out the simplest culprit
  • If it's been dropped or is clicking, stop and send it in
  • Bear in mind many externals are encrypted at the bridge
Avoid this
  • Re-plugging a clicking or dropped drive over and over
  • "Shucking" an encrypted drive to read it raw — all you'll get is ciphertext
  • Formatting it when prompted

We work around failed bridge boards, decrypt bridge-encrypted volumes, and handle head and motor work on dropped units — all in-house.

More on external drive recovery →
// usb stick recovery

USB flash drive recovery guide

A USB stick is flash memory sitting on a tiny controller chip. The good news: when one fails, it's usually the controller or a snapped connector that's gone, while the memory holding your data comes through fine. The bad news: that data is scrambled by the controller, so retrieving it is specialist work — never a job for a "repair" tool.

!Warning signs
  • It isn't recognised, or shows no light whatsoever
  • It asks you to format before it will open
  • The connector is bent, loose or snapped clean off
  • It connects, then drops out at random
Do this
  • Stop using it the moment something's wrong
  • If the connector has snapped, hold on to both pieces
  • Make a note of what was stored on it
Avoid this
  • Wiggling or forcing a loose connector — that cracks the board
  • Reformatting it
  • Trusting a "USB repair" tool that writes back to the drive

We read the memory chip directly — chip-off, or via a monolithic stick's internal test pads — and rebuild your files from the raw flash.

More on USB stick recovery →
// memory card recovery

SD & memory card recovery guide

Memory cards corrupt most often for one of two reasons: they're yanked out (or the camera dies) mid-write, or they're formatted in-camera by accident. Either way the photos and video nearly always survive — what breaks is the index that points to them. The knack is not overwriting them before they can be recovered.

!Warning signs
  • The camera flashes 'card error' or asks you to format the card
  • Files read as 0 bytes, or the card looks completely empty
  • It refuses to mount on a computer
  • It's jammed read-only or write-protected
Do this
  • Stop shooting right away — each new photo can overwrite a lost one
  • If it was formatted by accident, don't reuse the card at all
  • Slide the lock switch to read-only to keep it safe
Avoid this
  • Carrying on shooting with the card
  • Formatting it when the camera asks
  • Letting the camera "repair" or rebuild the card

We image the card and carve your photos and video out by their file signatures, then rebuild the folder structure — across SD, microSD, CF and XQD.

More on memory card recovery →
// mac & macbook recovery

Mac & MacBook recovery guide

Modern Macs bring two complications to recovery. The first is APFS, Apple's file system, which can be left in a broken state after a failed update. The second is the T2 or Apple-silicon security chip, which encrypts the storage — storage that on recent models is soldered to the logic board. Between them, your data only exists as readable files while that board is alive, and only if you hold the key.

!Warning signs
  • A flashing question-mark folder when it boots
  • It refuses to start after a macOS update
  • Liquid has been spilled on it
  • It's stuck demanding your FileVault password or key
Do this
  • Keep your FileVault recovery key somewhere safe — without it, nobody can unlock encrypted data
  • Stop using a liquid-damaged Mac immediately
  • Make a note of your macOS version and what happened
Avoid this
  • Leaving a liquid-damaged board powered — corrosion spreads
  • Reinstalling macOS on top of your data
  • Assuming the soldered SSD is fine just because the rest of the Mac has failed

On Macs with a removable or Fusion Drive, we rebuild damaged APFS containers and unlock FileVault volumes using your key. Where the storage is soldered to the logic board, as on T2 and Apple-silicon Macs, that isn't something we can take on.

More on Mac & MacBook recovery →
// laptop & pc recovery

Laptop & PC recovery guide

When a Windows laptop or PC won't boot, your files are usually intact — the real question is whether the drive is failing or it's simply the operating system that's broken. The two call for completely different handling, and treating a failing drive as a software glitch is how recoverable data gets lost.

!Warning signs
  • It won't boot, or blue-screens before Windows even loads
  • It freezes constantly, then won't boot at all
  • A SMART warning shows up at startup
  • A hard drive clicks, or an SSD has simply disappeared
Do this
  • If it's an OS problem, your files are recoverable — have the drive imaged
  • If a SMART warning appears, back up now and swap the drive out
  • Work out whether it's a hard drive or an SSD — it changes everything
Avoid this
  • Running chkdsk or repair tools over a physically failing drive
  • Reinstalling Windows ahead of recovering your data
  • Rebooting a drive that has started clicking

We image the drive and recover from both failing mechanical hard drives and dead SSDs — Dell, HP, Lenovo and the rest.

More on laptop & PC recovery →
// raid & nas recovery

RAID & NAS recovery guide

RAID arrays and NAS boxes give you redundancy — the room to survive a single disk failing — but they are not a backup. The trouble starts when a second disk goes, or a rebuild runs onto a disk that's already weak. The most damaging thing you can do is let the array rebuild or re-initialise onto a failing disk, which can overwrite the very data you're trying to save.

!Warning signs
  • The array reports as degraded, or has dropped offline
  • A Synology or QNAP flags 'volume crashed'
  • A rebuild has failed, or the controller has died
  • Two or more disks have gone down
Do this
  • Stop — don't let it rebuild or re-initialise itself
  • Pull the disks out and label each with its bay order (1, 2, 3...)
  • Send us every disk, the already-failed ones included
Avoid this
  • Rebuilding onto a suspect or already-failing disk
  • Resetting or re-initialising the NAS box
  • Reordering the disks, or forcing the array back online
What to send: just the drives, not the enclosure or controller. Take them out yourself and label each one with its slot number — that order is what lets us rebuild the array correctly. Our NAS recovery page covers the popular Synology and QNAP units in more detail.

We image each disk read-only, rebuild the array's stripe, parity and disk order virtually, then repair the file system on top — vendor-agnostic.

More on RAID recovery →
// before it happens

Protect your data: best practice.

The cheapest recovery is the one you never have to make. A handful of habits keep your data safe long before anything fails.

01

Follow the 3-2-1 rule

Keep three copies of anything you can't afford to lose, on two different kinds of media, with one held off-site or in the cloud. A single drive is never a backup.

02

Test your backups

A backup you've never restored from isn't a backup — it's wishful thinking. Every so often, actually open a file from it and confirm it works.

03

Act on early warnings

Odd noises, repeated freezes, files that won't open and SMART warnings are a drive crying out for help. Back it up and replace it before it fails outright.

04

Mind your SSDs

SSDs wipe deleted data within minutes (TRIM), so move fast on an accidental delete. And never leave one as your only copy, unpowered, for months — flash slowly loses charge.

05

Handle drives gently

Drops, heat, liquids and static all kill drives. Keep them padded, cool and dry, shut them down before moving them, and earth yourself before touching bare boards.

06

Protect against power

A surge protector — better still a UPS for desktops and NAS units — guards against the spikes and sudden cuts that corrupt file systems and fry circuit boards.

// don't believe it

Recovery myths, busted.

The internet is awash with "quick fixes" that do more harm than good. Here are the ones we see wreck the most drives.

"Put the failed drive in the freezer."
An old trick that now does far more harm than good — condensation and thermal shock damage the platters and electronics. Keep the drive at room temperature and send it in.
"Recovery software always gets it back."
Software only helps with logical problems on a healthy drive. On a physically failing one it keeps the drive powered and makes things worse. If the drive sounds or behaves wrong, stop.
"A clicking drive just needs a tap."
Clicking is the heads failing, and every spin scrapes the platters a little more. Tapping or shaking it only speeds up the damage. Power it off and leave it alone.
"Deleted files are gone forever."
On a hard drive, deleted data usually survives until it's overwritten — so stop using the drive. On an SSD, TRIM can wipe it within minutes, so act immediately.
"I've got RAID, so I'm backed up."
RAID protects against a disk failing, not against deletion, corruption, ransomware or a failed rebuild. It's redundancy, not a backup — you still need a separate copy.
"Reinstalling Windows or macOS is safe."
A reinstall writes over the very areas your lost files live in. If the data matters, recover it first — then reinstall.
// when you're ready

Not sure what you're dealing with? Let us look.

Every recovery begins with a free written diagnostic. We tell you what can be recovered and what it'll cost before any chargeable work — and on most jobs, no fix means no fee.

Drop off at Rotterdam House, Newcastle NE1 3DY · or post insured · Mon–Fri 9am–5:30pm